View Full Version : Fluoro or mono

11-28-2012, 10:21 PM
Should get some fluoro carbon for my spinning reel or just stick with mono? Give me some of your opinions.

11-29-2012, 09:44 AM
I use braided line on all my reels, spinning and baitcasters. Have floro leaders on some,especially for muskie. Rod/reel pics on my profile plus I added 4 more of each in the last couple of months. I think I have tackle disease,haha !

11-29-2012, 01:23 PM
Should get some fluoro carbon for my spinning reel or just stick with mono? Give me some of your opinions.

Definitely use braided line for mainline, and follow through with some fluoro leader, depending on what you're targetting. Usually 2ft+ of fluoro leader is sufficient. Braided line casts VERY well, much better than mono or fluoro. It's a tad more expensive, true, but i think it lasts longer, and much stronger & thinner.

12-05-2012, 01:45 PM
That's a tough question to answer with0ut knowing what for and how you are fishing

All three (mono, braid and fluoro) types of main-lines have their time and place, advantages and disadvantages. Though I admit, I've yet to find an advantage to running a straight fluoro mainline vs mono. Maybe some steelhead or bass guys think otherwise.

Most of my reels are spooled with braid, because 90% of the fishing I do is for pike/muskie. However, I do use mono for specific applications:

lake trout/walleye trolling,
ice fishing (I fish outside and braid absorbs water and freezes).

Tell us what you plan to use it for and you can get a better answer.

12-05-2012, 11:23 PM

Here are my reels and why I load different lines for different applications.

1) Saltist BG40 - medium conventional reel for saltwater fish. It gets some bottom fishing duties as well...so it is loaded with 300 yds of 65lb braid + anywhere from 10-40' of mono or fluoro leader depending on what I'm doing. Fishing at 250+ feet of water with 40lb mono is like fishing with a rubber band. Stretch is terrible and drag on the thick mono is makes keeping your line vertical terrible. For flyline bait, I use a 15-20' of fluoro leader. For bottom fishing with need for abrasion resistance, I use 30-40' of 40-60lb mono.

2) Saltist Levelwind 20 - small conventional reel for saltwater fish and muskie/pike. It also gets some bottom fishing duties (or will be)...so it is loaded with 50lb braid + a mono leader for bottom fishing, or tie straight to a steel leader or a 60lb fluoro leader for pike and muskies Again, minimizing the stretch of mono is key here.

3) Pflueger 4000 size spinning reel - I use this reel for float fishing steelhead and salmon. I do some winter steelheading and go out on cold days where line can freeze. I choose to use mono since braid absorb water and can freeze on the spool. Less issue with mono. Plus when a steelhead or salmon go on a surging run, it's nice to have a little stretch to cushion the surges. I usually use about 2' of fluoro (4-6lb).

4) Pflueger 3500 size spinning reel - I use this reel for general light saltwater fishing. I choose 30lb braid for strength and thin diameter, so I can cast a 2oz sinker far, or fish 1oz jigging spoons without much drag on the line. If I cast a bait out 70 yds for the bait-and-wait fishing, I want immediate bite detection and braid is the best for this. Again, if I cast a jigging spoon 50 yds out and get hit, I don't want any stretch in the line. Fishing in rocky or reefy environment does pose a challenge, so I usually use 10-15 feet of 30lb mono as a rub leader. Saltwater fish aren't usually line shy...so no need fluoro.

5) Pflueger 2500 size spinning reel - this is my general freshwater reel. I loaded it with 8lb mono since it is good for just about anything...jigging, livebait fishing, carp fishing...etc. Never see the need of using fluoro unless I'm fishing trout with it. Then I splice on some 3 feet of light fluoro (4-8lb).

I never see the need to use fluorocarbon mainline. I don't like fluorocarbon mainline. Yeah, it's a little more abrasion resistant (although that can also be debated...I've use some line that was worse than Trilene XL pound-for-pound!)...but it's stiffer than mono...so you lose sensitivity. There is less stretch...so if you do need that little bit of stretch, it's not there.

The way I see it, fluorocarbon mainline is a line that wants to have the stretch-free property of braid but lacks the supple feel of braid...it wants to have the abrasion resistance of a good 100% fluorocarbon leader yet it just can't compare with the real fluorocarbon...and it wants to have price of a mono line with the abrasion resistance and limpness of mono but lacks the stretch factor that you sometimes need. It's a line that fits no real good situation...and if you want a line that is "virtually invisible", I usually just use a good fluorocarbon leader instead of using a fluoro mainline.

12-06-2012, 12:17 PM
I think I have too many rod & reel combos to list but to give ya an idea

I have 6 or 7 muskie outfits, reels are ABU 6501, 7001, AVET SX, Curado 301, Quantum Cabo CBC31pts and convector line counters. I run 80 and 100lb braid on all these with either a fluoro (130lb) or wire (single strand [stiff] and multi strand [flexible]) leaders. I also have a trolling outfit that I run pure single strand wire (30lb) plus leader for fall fishing.

My two pike rods are a Curado 201 and a 2500 series spinning. I run 50lb braid on the Curado and 30lb braid on the spinning.

My dipsy diver rods and planer board rods I run 14 or 17lb mono. For long line trolling without the boards its usually 8 or 10lb mono. I like the stretch, it prevents tearing the hooks out of them trout and walleye. Walleye jigging rods are 6 or 8lb mono. Ice fishn 4 to 10lb mono. Thankfully, I don't fish bass or I'd really have too many combos :D .

12-06-2012, 11:25 PM
Thanks for all of the suggestions and replys you have given me. But i am really only a bass fisherman and i see most of you guys like braid. Do you think since fluoro sinks you could feel your bait better compared to braid that floats?

12-07-2012, 09:03 AM
If you mainly fish bass, then most of the time...

1) You pitch a jig...which sinks...which brings the braid down.

2) You fish a spinnerbait...which sinks...which brings the braid down

3) You fish a carolina rig...which sinks...which brings the braid down

4) You fish a crankbait...which dives...which brings the braid down

I can continue on...but the floating property of braid is a moot point in my opinion...unless you are fishing with light plastics like wacky rigging a Senko worm. Then you may have a case. But at the same time, you can always watch the tip of the braid for any movement to indicate a bite. This is similar to fly angler using a floating fly line while drifting or fishing stillwater with a subsurface presentation...they watch the tip of the fly line for any movement to indicate a bite.

Plus, braid soak up water anyways. That is why icefisherman don't like to use braid if they fish outside even though braid offers small line diameter vs. added strength. When the braid soaks up water, it freezes to the spool in cold weather. My point here is that when your braid soaks up water, it doesn't float anymore. It will slowly sink just like your fluoro.

So if you need "invisibility", just add a few feet of fluoro as a leader and you'll be fine. 100% fluorocarbon leader is much more abrasion resistant than fluorocarbon line anyways. I've fished Berkley Vanish and Seaguar InvisX and they are both crap. I get better abrasion with equivalent 8lb Trilene XL mono than I get with both lines bottom bouncing at Niagara or Port D which the bottom is completely littered with zebra mussels.

Plus...green braid camouflage better in heavy weeds than mono or fluoro anyways. That's why a lot of guys that pitches jigs just tie the jig straight to braid. If the braid fades, you can always colour the few feet above your lure with a green, brown or black marker.

12-08-2012, 10:03 AM
Yes, I think youd be happy with braid - 20-30 lb on your spinning reel. Braid is a lot more sensitive than either one of your other two choices, you'll feel the fish fart on your lure.

12-08-2012, 11:31 AM
Yes, I think youd be happy with braid - 20-30 lb on your spinning reel. Braid is a lot more sensitive than either one of your other two choices, you'll feel the fish fart on your lure.

Have never had a reason to go over 10lb braid, even when fishing for Carp.
I cant imagine using 30lb braid...for anything.

12-19-2012, 02:23 PM
how would you feel about 100lb test then? ;)

10lb is silly thin and doesn't offer much in the way of protection against rocks/zebra mussels. it's fine if you're fishing open water or vertical jigging (ice fishing).

a general rule of thumb is to match the diameter of the braid to the diameter of the mono you were previously using, ie. 14lb mono = 50lb braid or thereabouts.

12-19-2012, 03:04 PM
next question would be what Brand/Type of braid would you recomend?

12-19-2012, 05:11 PM
I like Sufix 832. I've also used Sufix Performance Braid and PowerPro and liked them. Strangely, the Sufix 832 is cheaper than their Performance Braid. The 832 seems a bit thinner but still stay round. Power Pro tends to flatten out.